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Saturday, July 27, 2024

Recipe Round Up: Çilbir

I cannot remember when I first saw this recipe, but it seemed simple enough, tasty, and the kind of thing we all would like. Well, it definitely was, but even more than I anticipated. This is a dish that is certainly more than its component parts. Evidently, this is a Turkish preparation of eggs and we have fallen in love.

Usually, I try to give an option for ingredients which are more difficult to find, but this one is so much better with the Turkish that the substitute of Aleppo pepper might be equally challenging for you to find, I would strongly recommend getting the urfa biber peppers for it. If you follow my blog and use a lot of my recipes, you have probably already picked up some Aleppo pepper, and that makes an admirable substitute. Red pepper flakes will really be a bit too hot and one dimensional. If you absolutely must use red pepper flakes, I would use half the amount, and would not consider the paprika optional. If you cannot find labneh, you can make your own (this takes a few days' preparation, but only requires plain, full fat, yogurt, a sprinkling of kosher salt, a strainer, cheesecloth, and a bowl to catch the strained liquid) or just use all plain, whole milk yogurt. I like using half labneh and half yogurt, as it makes a thicker sauce.

Çilbir is a dish whose quickness really depends on a good mise en place. If you gather your ingredients, you can make this whole meal in 10 to 15 minutes. So, take the extra minute or two to crack all your eggs into ramekins, and grab every other ingredient and pan you will need, so it is all there and ready to go. Even with the quick cooking, you do have time to mince garlic and herbs while the eggs cook. This recipe can be scaled up or down quite easily.

Çilbir

8 eggs cracked into small bowls or ramekins
generous pinch salt and splash vinegar for poaching liquid
1 stick (8 tablespoons, 1/2 cup) butter
2 tablespoons Urfa biber or Aleppo pepper
1 teaspoons of paprika or sweet smoked paprika, optional
1 cup labneh
1 cup plain, whole milk, yogurt
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint (plus a few sprigs to serve, if you like)
kosher salt, to taste

Prepare two pans: One a wide, shallow skillet with sides and a lid, the other a small saucepan. Fill the skillet about half way with cold water, sprinkle in the salt and vinegar, and bring to a low boil. Put the butter, pepper flakes, and paprika in the saucepan and heat on low. If using unsalted butter, you may want to add a pinch of salt, if salted butter, I would not. Stir the butter mixture occasionally. You do not want the butter to boil or burn, but a little simmer is fine.

While the water is coming to a low boil and the butter is melting, mix the labneh, yogurt, garlic, dill, mint and salt in a bowl. Set aside.

When the water is simmering rapidly, give the pan a slight swirl, to get the water moving a little, and start carefully slipping each ramekin of egg into the water. You will want to dip the edge of each bowl into the water, so the egg is not dropping from a distance. There are a lot of ways to make "perfect" poached eggs, and I honestly don't worry about them that much. Mine are not picture perfect, but they are perfectly cooked, and that is good enough for us. If having them look better matters to you, there are numerous strategies you can use. When all the eggs are in the water, cover and let simmer for about 4 minutes. This should result in fully cooked, soft, whites, and creamy yolks with a custardy, runny center. If you want them more or less cooked, add or subtract a minute. Remove each egg from the water with a slotted spoon and place on a plate.

To serve: Ladle about 1/4 cup of the yogurt mixture onto a plate, nestle a poached egg into the center, then drizzle some of the butter sauce over the top of the egg and yogurt. Serve with warmed flatbreads, khoubz, or toast, to grab the egg and sop up the sauces.

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