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Saturday, June 14, 2025

Recipe Round Up: Za'atar Spice Blend, Orange Apricot and Mustard Glaze for Ham, Waraq 'Ounab, Salatat Battatas ou Bayd, Plus a Bonus of Seven Spice Recipes

I am woefully behind on sharing recipes here, but this is a good collection of them for you to start catching up on them.

Za'atar Spice Blend

Za'atar is a wild marjoram relative that grows throughout the Levant and parts of the Middle East. It is hard to find in the US, as it is often mistakenly called thyme or wild thyme. It is not. However, marjoram (or thyme, as a distant third) makes an acceptable substitute if you can't get it from the Middle East or grow a domesticated version of it (many seed companies have domestic varieties, though the wild type is still considered the superior). There is also an herb blend called za'atar, however, which has as its main ingredient, the dried, wild za'atar herb. It can be bought through spice companies, or at Middle Eastern markets, but it is also super simple to make and keep on hand. Some of the commercially available blends include wheat, so we make our own (with our Jordanian dried za'atar, which was a wonderful gift to us). Each country, region, city, and even family, makes theirs a little differently. Here is how we make it.

1/2 cup dried za'atar (or marjoram, thyme, or a blend of both)
1/4 cup toasted sesame seeds
2 tablespoons sumac
1 tablespoon kosher salt

Mix together and put in a sealed jar to use as a seasoning, sprinkled over vegetables, cheese, yogurt, or anything you like.

Orange Apricot and Mustard Glaze for Ham

Rich hates glazed hams. I can only tolerate them out of politeness. They are overly sweet and cloying. When they are spiced, it is even worse. However, one year, a family from our church brought a glazed ham that I liked and Rich tolerated. It was glazed with marmalade and peach nectar. I've done that before and Rich ate it. This year, though, I found a friend who put mustard in her glaze, like I do with corned beef, and I thought that would be perfect. So, I added some mustard to my glaze, and it was quite good. Definitely something we will repeat. If you are not a fan of the super sweet glazed hams, you might like this one. Or you might like it as an alternative.

1/2 cup bitter orange marmalade
1/2 cup apricot or peach nectar (we prefer apricot)
1/2 cup dijon or country mustard

That's it! Mix it up and apply it after the ham has been heated/cooked through. Put it back in the oven and cook another 10 minutes, pull out and apply more to the ham, cook another 10 minutes.

Waraq 'Ounab

The filling I use for these is basically the same one I use for malfouf (stuffed cabbage). The difference is the leaf, and what goes in the bottom of the pot. You can also make these with blanched Swiss chard leaves (selk). Also, I have found that these can be rolled and frozen on a sheet and then bagged up for the freezer to be ready at any time, or to make a smaller pot of them. I have also learned that making them in an electric pressure cooker like the Instant Pot cooks them in a quarter of the time and perfectly. I will include instructions for both the stove top and the pressure cooker. In the Arab world, there is a specific tool for weighting stuffed vegetables and keeping them submerged in the pot. An inverted plate will work, but will temporarily stain it (for a few weeks).

2 32 ounce jars of preserved grape leaves, stems trimmed (or fresh spring, or home preserved grape leaves)
4 pounds ground lamb or beef
2 bunches parsley
2 large onions
12 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons cumin
4 teaspoons coriander
1 tablespoon + 2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper
2 cups basmati rice (or other medium to long grain rice)
2 pounds lamb shoulder chops or steaks
salt and pepper to season lamb
olive oil to brown lamb
56 ounces tomato sauce or purée
water
juice of two lemons

Puree parsley, onion, garlic, cumin, coriander, 1 tablespoon salt, and pepper. Mix this in with the meat and rice. Shape the meat into long, little ovals, to fit the grape leaf, and fold in the sides, then roll up tightly to form a package. If there is any remaining meat mixture form into small to medium football shaped meatballs.

Heat a large pot over medium high heat until hot. Season lamb generously with salt and pepper. Drizzle olive oil in the bottom of the pot, and brown the lamb, turning to brown the other side. Layer the waraq 'ounab over the meat, seam side down, stacking as you go. Place any kofta into the pot on top of the grape leaves. In the rare chance that there are any grape leaves without filling remaining, just put them flat on top of the other rolls in the pot. Pour tomato sauce/purée over the top, along with an equal amount of water (rinse down the sides of the cans/jars and fill with water), remaining salt, and the lemon juice. Invert a small plate over the top of the food and cover with a lid. Bring liquid to a boil, reduce heat and cook for about 45 minutes, or until meat is cooked and rice is soft.

To make this in a pressure cooker, set to sauté and brown the lamb as above. Layer the waraq 'ounab and any kofta or extra leaves as above. Pour in the sauce, water, salt, and lemon juice over the top, then cover with the lid. Set to high pressure, and cook for 10 minutes. Allow to release pressure naturally for another 10 minutes, then manually depressurize.

Serve with rice, spooning sauce over, harissa, if you like it, and make a salad.

Salatat Battatas ou Bayd

This is a wonderful summer salad, and it makes an excellent breakfast with good bread, fruit, and a cup of strong coffee or tea. It is super simple to prepare, and if you boil the potatoes and eggs ahead of time, you can put it together in even less time than it takes when cooking them immediately for the salad. I am including the recipe(s) for the seasoning mix, as well.

2 pounds new/baby potatoes, scrubbed
10 large eggs, boiled and peeled.
1 medium red onion or 2 large shallots, peeled and finely diced
2 red or green chiles (optional, but not really) - the closest to the kinds used in the Middle East are serranos - minced
1/4 cup fresh oregano leaves, minced
1/4 cup fresh spearmint leaves, minced
1/2 cup olive oil plus more to drizzle over the top
juice and zest one large lemon
1 1/2 teaspoons Saudi Seven Spice Blend
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
salt, to taste

Boil the potatoes until just cooked, in highly salted water. Drain, cut in half and place in a large bowl. Cut eggs in half and place in bowl with the potatoes. Add onions, chiles, oregano, and spearmint. Pour 1/2 cup olive oil, zest and juice of the lemon, Saudi Seven Spice Blend, Aleppo pepper, and salt over the top of the salad. Gently toss together to mix well.

Serve with a slight drizzle of more olive oil, saj, khoubz Araby, tamis, or even Persian barbari bread (which I have in the photo), fruit, and a strong cup of coffee or tea.

Saudi Seven Spice Blend(s)

Every country in the Arab world has their own version of this. Every region, every city, every village, every family has their own. There are pre-made mixes you can buy, but it is simple to mix these together and have them at the ready with fresher spices. If you grind your own spices from whole, it is even better. In these, I use true (Ceylon) cinnamon, rather than cassia, but either will work. The flavor of the Ceylon is more citrussy, however. I am sharing the recipes from my father's side of the family, my mother's side of the family, and my father's wife (which is also similar to how one of my sisters in law makes it). I know better than to say which I like better - I'm not getting involved in that argument. However, I suggest that you make a sample of each one and try it to see which you prefer. If you mix and match or adjust these to suit your own tastes a little, it's fine. Just don't tell me, or anyone in my family.

Maternal

1/4 cup black pepper
1/4 cup ground cumin
1/4 cup ground ginger
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons finely crushed bay leaf
1 tablespoon ground cardamom
1 tablespoon ground turmeric

Mix and store in a clean, sealed jar.

Paternal

1/4 cup black pepper
1/4 cup ground cumin
1/4 cup ground coriander
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons ground turmeric
1 tablespoon ground anise
1 tablespoon ground clove

Mix and store in a clean, sealed jar.

Extended Family

1/4 cup black pepper
1/4 cup ground cumin
1/4 cup ground coriander
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons ground allspice
1 tablespoon ground anise
1 tablespoon ground clove

Mix and store in a clean, sealed jar.

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